Fado Route

Sr. Vinho, owned by the fado singer Maria da Fé and the poet José Luís Gordo, is considered one of Lisbon’s best fado houses. This cosy spot, reminiscent of a typical Portuguese home replete with pictures of saints, memories of bygone days and references to fado singers, has been entertaining Lisbon evenings for over 40 years.

A mythical street where Severa, said to be the first ever fado singer and after whom a famous song was named, once lived. If you enter the street from Largo do Martim Moniz, you’ll find a frieze with various famous fado singers on the left. If you keep climbing, you’ll come to Largo da Severa, one of the most authentic places in Mouraria.

Like any chapel, this one is small, but due to its open location it looks even smaller, contrasting with the size of the buildings in Mouraria, exacerbated by the hills that skirt Largo do Martim Moniz where it stands. The veneration of Nossa Senhora da Saúde (Our Lady of Good Health) is very popular in Lisbon. Every year, in a tradition that has continued since it was built in the 16th century, a procession sets off from this chapel. It is mentioned in the lyrics of some fado songs.

There are so many steps don’t even bother to count them. But the going is not too heavy, and half way up you’ll be surprised by the most impressive fado-themed graffiti in Lisbon. Connecting Rua da Madalena to Rua de S. Cristóvão, the steps take you straight to the heart of Mouraria. At the top, you’ll find the church of S. Cristóvão, which deserves a visit.

This renowned Renaissance palace with a sophistication that contrasts with its surroundings has an interesting feature: one of its large cornerstones is covered with big stone balls. It is said that originally they were all covered with gold. The former home of the counts of Ericeira, today it houses the Hospital de S. Luís dos Franceses, where the great Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa (1935) and the painter Almada Negreiros (1970) both died.

Nothing in this museum, founded in 1998, has stood still in time. The exhibition of objects belonging to hundreds of singers, composers, writers, instrument makers, scholars and researchers is dynamic, at times even presented in song. That’s right, there are organised guided tours for groups that are sung. And there are workshops, record launches and temporary exhibitions.

At this stunning establishment, resplendent in its 17th-century Lisbon style, traditional fado is served up by the finest singers in an atmosphere that is both affable and sophisticated. Visitors to this prestigious fado house in Alfama can also enjoy the finest traditional Portuguese delicacies and local wines.

Located in the parish of Estrela, starting at Travessa do Pasteleiro and ending at Rua das Trinas, this street occupies an important place in the story of fado: it was here, at number 33, that Maria Severa Onofriana, the first fado singer of which there is memory, was born. Besides this signposted house, amongst this street’s jewels is also the Real Mosteiro de Nossa Senhora do Mocamba.

It’s been plodding its way along the oldest streets of Lisbon for so many years that it can do it with its eyes closed. To get to Alfama, you should jump on in Baixa at one of the stops in Rua da Conceição. In the summer, it’s the coolest way to travel. With its open guillotine windows, it’s lovely to feel the cool breeze as you proceed at the tram’s slow and steady pace.

In Rua de São Tomé, passersby are caught by surprise by a mural featuring the image of the iconic fado singer Amália Rodrigues made out of Portuguese cobblestones. The work was created by the famous urban artist Vhils in collaboration with the cobble pavers of Lisbon. The artist’s idea was to pay homage to fado, which first began in the street, while at the same time paying tribute to the city’s cobble pavers, its first urban artists. The mural, which begins on the pavement and progresses up the wall, has an interesting feature: when it rains, the image of Amália "cries", as the real Amália did so many times when she became emotional on stage.

These steps are located in the heart of the neighbourhood, beside the church of S. Miguel, and open out onto a square with several simple eateries where fado vadio is sung. Whoever passes by can’t miss the balconies with geraniums, colourful clotheslines and cats running from their own shadows.

Once a coal merchant’s and then a cheap eatery, in the 1950s it became a local landmark for lovers of fado. The woman behind its success was Argentina Santos, a legend of fado castiço. This is a place whose walls once echoed to the voices of Amália Rodrigues, Lucília do Carmo, Alfredo Marceneiro and Maria da Fé, amongst other renowned names from the world of Lisbon’s traditional music.

Alfredo de Almeida, a bookseller, and Lucília Carmo, a fado singer, also parents of the fado singer Carlos do Carmo, opened this establishment in 1947 and since then it has lived on as a veritable temple to fado. Alfredo Marceneiro, Tristão da Silva, Beatriz da Silva and, more recently, Camané have all performed here. And its customers, amongst which Marcello Mastroianni, have been just as illustrious.

In 1968, Amália Rodrigues inaugurated this establishment, bringing it immediate fame. It has been a stage for people such as Amália Rodrigues, Filipe Pinto, António Rocha, Tristão da Silva and Fernando Maurício and is one of the most popular fado houses amongst foreign tourists.

A former butcher’s converted into a special greengrocer’s, replete with symbols of Portuguese cuisine and decorated with objects linked to fado. It has a large selection of Portuguese fruit and vegetables and regional cheeses, wines, jams and excellent olive oil. The old butcher’s look gives it a special style.

Once a dilapidated part of the city, the square’s regeneration has turned it into a small showcase of authentic Lisbon. It is surrounded by tile-clad buildings, one of which, the former Viúva Lamego tile factory, is simply stunning. The square has a hostel, pavement cafés, a fountain, flower beds and a busy day and nightlife.

This viewing point, also known as the Miradouro do Adamastor because of the statue representing this sea monster that stands there, has a superb view of the river. It’s located beside the Bica quarter right in the heart of downtown Lisbon. There’s a café which is open 24 hours a day. A great place for a quiet moment with someone close.

This funicular connects Praça dos Restauradores at the bottom to Bairro Alto at the top.

This market is located close to the river front. Dating from 1882, it was once the most important wholesale market in the city. Later it was converted into a retail market and recently into a food and cultural centre. On the ground floor, you can sample traditional Portuguese delicacies alongside fusion cooking by renowned chefs. The upper floor, besides a famous restaurant, has a venue for cultural events. The traditional market still operates during the morning. On Sundays, it also holds a collector’s market.

This viewing point is located in Graça, a traditional old Lisbon quarter at the top of one of the city’s seven hills. It has a stunning view of the castle and the whole of the downtown area. Shaded by typical Mediterranean pine trees, it has public benches and a pleasant café and is a compulsory port of call for anyone visiting the city.

As you make your way up the narrow and interlaced streets of Madragoa, you come to the top of Calçada Castelo Picão. As this neighbourhood doesn’t have any viewing points because its urban layout is too dense, this is the best place to enjoy a panoramic view of the area.